As lush foliage returns in this warmer season, there is plenty of rain in early May in Tokyo. This rainy season is called “Tsuyu.” Tsuyu is also when blueback fish such as horse mackerel and sardines are in season. While you can find these fish at restaurants year-round, they are particularly fresh during Tsuyu, and are even referred to as Tsuyu horse mackerel and Tsuyu sardines.
The Japanese term for horse mackerel is “aji,” which means “flavor.” Many say this name symbolizes its delightful taste. There are various ways it is prepared, such as sashimi and tataki, or paired with miso in a dish called “namero.” Aside from enjoying horse mackerel raw, you can grill it with salt, boil it, or hang it to dry over night -- all of which make for delicious preparations.
Today I would like to talk about deep-fried horse mackerel: or deep-fried aji.
After slicing the aji down its backside, you add some salt and refrigerate it for about 30 minutes. Doing so will remove not only excess moisture, but also the pungent fishy smell. Next, you cover it in batter and fry it at a high temperature. The crunch of the fried coating and savory flavor of the tender fish makes for an impactful dish.
Can deep-fried aji be considered Washoku? Or is it Western cuisine? This is something quite debated amongst our peers. Fried foods themselves originated in Western cuisine, using breadcrumbs as the coating. However, even though tonkatsu uses the same technique, most people will consider it Washoku. Fried foods were introduced to Japan as Western cuisine in the Meiji Period, but after 100 years it has been fully deemed as Washoku.
Many people will eat deep-fried aji with barbeque sauce or tartar sauce. I recommend eating it with soy sauce and togarashi (red pepper powder). While enjoying the crunchy fried coating, the soy sauce enhances the umami flavors of the fish, making the fish’s natural deliciousness stand out. Plus, eating it with soy sauce sends home the message that it is truly Washoku. Please give it a try sometime.
Source: Tokyo College of Sushi and Washoku: The College Headmaster’s One-Dish Course Series.
http:///www.sushi-tokyo.jp/blog-headmaster
Photo source: Tokyo College of Sushi and Washoku: The College Headmaster’s One-Dish Course Series.