The true representative of Autumnal cuisine and flavors is none other than salmon. In this time of year, it is often referred to as such things as: “the fish of Autumn” or “the flavor of Autumn.” This Autumn salmon eats and grows as it leaves in the sea, then returns to the river where it was born to lay its eggs, making it well known for its delicious flavor and supple fat content. Salmon is perhaps mostly thought of as a Hokkaido region treasure, but it can also be found in Murakami City of the Niigata Prefecture.
Salmon has been a highly valued ingredient in Japanese cuisine for quite some time. In the Echizen Province (Fukui Prefecture) of the Heian Era, records show that salmon was given its own specific tax by the Imperial Court. One traditional dish from this time period is called “Shiozake” or “salted salmon.” It was devised to improve the fish’s shelf-life by generously rubbing it with salt with the innards removed. Wrapping this with a rope was a popular year-end gift at the time known as Aramakizake, but you don’t see that tradition anymore in modern times.
By the way, did you know that salmon is actually a white fish akin to the trout? Salmon is a white fish that grows in the river just like rainbow trout, but since salmon grows in the ocean and eats many red critters such as krill and shrimp, it develops its distinct pink coloring, distinguished from the vibrant red coloring of fish such as tuna and skipjack. Though the names “trout” and “salmon” are completely different, from a biological classification standpoint, the two fish are nearly one in the same.
A delicious way to enjoy salmon in this season is a version of salted salmon that is cooked over a grill. The baked skin is perfectly crisp, and the meat is overflowing with savory umami. You can eat it just like that over white rice, but in this season, you can also mince the salmon and enjoy it rolled up in an onigiri rice ball with fresh rice for a more relaxed preparation. Also, if you go heavier with the salt, I believe you can enjoy this as pickled salmon over cold rice. I do recommend eating the entire fish, because both the skin and the meat are delicious and nutritious.
Which would you prefer? Salted salmon? Salmon onigiri? Pickled salmon? Or maybe all three?
Source: Tokyo College of Sushi and Washoku: The College Headmaster’s One-Dish Course Series.
http:///www.sushi-tokyo.jp/blog-headmaster
Photo source: Tokyo College of Sushi and Washoku: The College Headmaster’s One-Dish Course Series.